Hey guys.
I did build this one but it does not sound quite right… There is practically no sustain (goes silent almost instantly) and the Level pot does not seem to have right effect…
I’m pretty new to DIY pedals so I would appreciate some guidance where to start looking…
Very nice, norv 🙂 I’m sure regular electrolytics would work just as well (and would probably be less expensive), but tantalums are good. Odd reading on C2, but it looks to be part of a high-pass filter and having it read a higher value means you’re getting more of the lower frequencies through than if it was 47n.
Congratulations on the build!
I built this and it worked first time 🙂
It doesn’t have a lot of high end, but the tantalum? caps i used varied a lot from the values they were supposed to be, eg. C2 was labelled 47nF, but measuree on my DMM at 75nF!
Thanks for the great layout Harald, I’m a fan 🙂
Awsome sounding pedal.
I took out C9. The Fuzz sound is more fuzzy and you get a higher output. -> very cool. I will build a Tone Control on the C9 Position.
If you cut one of the two jumpers, that connect Pin 3 and Pin 13 of IC2, you can install a switch, that connects Pin 13 and 3 (2 octaves) OR 13 and 1 (one octave) -> very very cool mod
If the pedal is too confuse, use the neck PU and turn down your tone knob of your guitar – it will sound much more stabel
i really like this pedal.
if anyone knows how to control the fuzz-gain -> please tell me.
I would rather replace them with 1N4148, but 1N400x might work OK. They have a similar voltage drop, which I think is the relevant characteristic here. You might end up with a circuit that sounds slightly different though.
will 1n4001 diodes work instead of the 1n914’s?
Thanks for verifying, chris!
Verified 😉
I found a cold solder joint ^^
Thx Harald!
Chris, I thought the cd4013 makes the octave effect? So maybe it isn’t working? I’m building this in a 2 months from now.
Is this vero verified? I tried it a few days ago, and I get a fuzz sound, but not really the “octave sound”.
When blend is turned full clockwise, theres no signal, so I think there is sth. wrong. AND the sound doesn´t change when i put the cd4013 away?! Gonna check the traced if i fucked sth. up….
Hi, Koen. I haven’t had a look at any mods to this circuit. If you give it a try will you let us know?
This one owrks and the octave switch is between pins 1 and 3 and if you replace the output cap with a 222 size cap and put it in a spst switch with another wire you can get a brighter more upper-ish octave tone. I did one other circuit bend of this one and it kinda makes it go into wild oscillating mode. Its a great pedal. Everyone who builds one should try circuit bending it to find some cool new sounds.
Would a switch between e18 and g18 (maybe between e17 of g17 is more easy) would be the mod for 1 or 2 octaves down?
Great, I just ordered both and hopefully can compare them at the beginning of 2012. This will be my first vero, I’m quite excited! Thank you so much for this website!
If I can’t find the 4558, what would you recommend?
That’s great, Henning. And I assume you meant to post this comment under the Riot.
finished the design last night. And!! it´s working! The only thing is, that you cannot see the blue clipping diode “clipping” -no blue light – I assume, that the voltage is too weak to bring it up illuminating.
But the sound is awesome. Great Work
with the Germanium diodes slightly more mellow. with the 914/blue LED rough and raw – in the middle position – red LED alone – amazing.
there is nothing more to say
Henning
Hey guys.
I did build this one but it does not sound quite right… There is practically no sustain (goes silent almost instantly) and the Level pot does not seem to have right effect…
I’m pretty new to DIY pedals so I would appreciate some guidance where to start looking…
The voltages are as follows:
Battery: 9.52V
IC 1
1: 4.75V
2: 4.82V
3: 4.38V
4: 0.0V
5: 4.64V
6: 4.68V
7: 4.80V
8: 9.33V
IC2
1: ~5V
2: ~4 – 6V (changing all the time)
3: 8.42V
4: 0.0V
5: ~5V
6: 0.0V
7: 0.0V
8: 0.0V
9: 8.65V
10:0.0V
11: 4.61V
12: 8.82V
13: 8.72V
14: 9.3V
Q1
C: 4.6V
B: 0.39V
E: 0.0V
Q2
C: 0.0V
B: 0.33V
E: 0.0V
Q3
C: 0.0V
B: 0.21V
E: 0.0V
Thank you
Very nice, norv 🙂 I’m sure regular electrolytics would work just as well (and would probably be less expensive), but tantalums are good. Odd reading on C2, but it looks to be part of a high-pass filter and having it read a higher value means you’re getting more of the lower frequencies through than if it was 47n.
Congratulations on the build!
I built this and it worked first time 🙂
It doesn’t have a lot of high end, but the tantalum? caps i used varied a lot from the values they were supposed to be, eg. C2 was labelled 47nF, but measuree on my DMM at 75nF!
Thanks for the great layout Harald, I’m a fan 🙂
Pictures, more: http://www.guitargear.net.au/discussion/index.php/topic,35883.0.html
Awsome sounding pedal.
I took out C9. The Fuzz sound is more fuzzy and you get a higher output. -> very cool. I will build a Tone Control on the C9 Position.
If you cut one of the two jumpers, that connect Pin 3 and Pin 13 of IC2, you can install a switch, that connects Pin 13 and 3 (2 octaves) OR 13 and 1 (one octave) -> very very cool mod
If the pedal is too confuse, use the neck PU and turn down your tone knob of your guitar – it will sound much more stabel
i really like this pedal.
if anyone knows how to control the fuzz-gain -> please tell me.
I would rather replace them with 1N4148, but 1N400x might work OK. They have a similar voltage drop, which I think is the relevant characteristic here. You might end up with a circuit that sounds slightly different though.
will 1n4001 diodes work instead of the 1n914’s?
Thanks for verifying, chris!
Verified 😉
I found a cold solder joint ^^
Thx Harald!
Chris, I thought the cd4013 makes the octave effect? So maybe it isn’t working? I’m building this in a 2 months from now.
Is this vero verified? I tried it a few days ago, and I get a fuzz sound, but not really the “octave sound”.
When blend is turned full clockwise, theres no signal, so I think there is sth. wrong. AND the sound doesn´t change when i put the cd4013 away?! Gonna check the traced if i fucked sth. up….
Hi, Koen. I haven’t had a look at any mods to this circuit. If you give it a try will you let us know?
This one owrks and the octave switch is between pins 1 and 3 and if you replace the output cap with a 222 size cap and put it in a spst switch with another wire you can get a brighter more upper-ish octave tone. I did one other circuit bend of this one and it kinda makes it go into wild oscillating mode. Its a great pedal. Everyone who builds one should try circuit bending it to find some cool new sounds.
Would a switch between e18 and g18 (maybe between e17 of g17 is more easy) would be the mod for 1 or 2 octaves down?
Great, I just ordered both and hopefully can compare them at the beginning of 2012. This will be my first vero, I’m quite excited! Thank you so much for this website!
You can probably get away with any normal dual opamp, e.g. the TL072, but finding the 4558 shouldn’t be a problem. Try musikding.de: http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p346_RC4558P.html
If I can’t find the 4558, what would you recommend?
That’s great, Henning. And I assume you meant to post this comment under the Riot.
finished the design last night. And!! it´s working! The only thing is, that you cannot see the blue clipping diode “clipping” -no blue light – I assume, that the voltage is too weak to bring it up illuminating.
But the sound is awesome. Great Work
with the Germanium diodes slightly more mellow. with the 914/blue LED rough and raw – in the middle position – red LED alone – amazing.
there is nothing more to say
Henning