18 thoughts on “Request: MXR BlueBox

  1. Hey guys.
    I did build this one but it does not sound quite right… There is practically no sustain (goes silent almost instantly) and the Level pot does not seem to have right effect…
    I’m pretty new to DIY pedals so I would appreciate some guidance where to start looking…

    The voltages are as follows:
    Battery: 9.52V

    IC 1
    1: 4.75V
    2: 4.82V
    3: 4.38V
    4: 0.0V
    5: 4.64V
    6: 4.68V
    7: 4.80V
    8: 9.33V

    IC2
    1: ~5V
    2: ~4 – 6V (changing all the time)
    3: 8.42V
    4: 0.0V
    5: ~5V
    6: 0.0V
    7: 0.0V
    8: 0.0V
    9: 8.65V
    10:0.0V
    11: 4.61V
    12: 8.82V
    13: 8.72V
    14: 9.3V

    Q1

    C: 4.6V
    B: 0.39V
    E: 0.0V

    Q2

    C: 0.0V
    B: 0.33V
    E: 0.0V

    Q3

    C: 0.0V
    B: 0.21V
    E: 0.0V

    Thank you

  2. Very nice, norv πŸ™‚ I’m sure regular electrolytics would work just as well (and would probably be less expensive), but tantalums are good. Odd reading on C2, but it looks to be part of a high-pass filter and having it read a higher value means you’re getting more of the lower frequencies through than if it was 47n.
    Congratulations on the build!

  3. Awsome sounding pedal.
    I took out C9. The Fuzz sound is more fuzzy and you get a higher output. -> very cool. I will build a Tone Control on the C9 Position.

    If you cut one of the two jumpers, that connect Pin 3 and Pin 13 of IC2, you can install a switch, that connects Pin 13 and 3 (2 octaves) OR 13 and 1 (one octave) -> very very cool mod

    If the pedal is too confuse, use the neck PU and turn down your tone knob of your guitar – it will sound much more stabel

    i really like this pedal.

    if anyone knows how to control the fuzz-gain -> please tell me.

  4. I would rather replace them with 1N4148, but 1N400x might work OK. They have a similar voltage drop, which I think is the relevant characteristic here. You might end up with a circuit that sounds slightly different though.

  5. Chris, I thought the cd4013 makes the octave effect? So maybe it isn’t working? I’m building this in a 2 months from now.

  6. Is this vero verified? I tried it a few days ago, and I get a fuzz sound, but not really the “octave sound”.
    When blend is turned full clockwise, theres no signal, so I think there is sth. wrong. AND the sound doesnΒ΄t change when i put the cd4013 away?! Gonna check the traced if i fucked sth. up….

  7. This one owrks and the octave switch is between pins 1 and 3 and if you replace the output cap with a 222 size cap and put it in a spst switch with another wire you can get a brighter more upper-ish octave tone. I did one other circuit bend of this one and it kinda makes it go into wild oscillating mode. Its a great pedal. Everyone who builds one should try circuit bending it to find some cool new sounds.

  8. Would a switch between e18 and g18 (maybe between e17 of g17 is more easy) would be the mod for 1 or 2 octaves down?

  9. Great, I just ordered both and hopefully can compare them at the beginning of 2012. This will be my first vero, I’m quite excited! Thank you so much for this website!

  10. finished the design last night. And!! itΒ΄s working! The only thing is, that you cannot see the blue clipping diode “clipping” -no blue light – I assume, that the voltage is too weak to bring it up illuminating.
    But the sound is awesome. Great Work
    with the Germanium diodes slightly more mellow. with the 914/blue LED rough and raw – in the middle position – red LED alone – amazing.
    there is nothing more to say
    Henning

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