20 thoughts on “Request: W****** Daisley Prive

  1. The remaining capacitors are, as you say, non-electrolytic. It’s largely up to you what flavor you want to use, ceramic, film, mica etc, but not all variants can be had in all values.

  2. Hi everyone – I’m getting ready to give this build a try. I’ve started sourcing out parts and was asked which type of capacitors these are. It appears that C12, C13 & C14 are electrolytic but what about the remaining ones? They do not appear to be electrolytic by the schematic, perhaps Polyester Mylar or Metallized polyester? Also, any ‘got-cha’s’ that I should keep in mind during the build??
    Many thanks in advance!

  3. Just for interest I used T092 jets and a 4558 dual opamp chip. I think I will keep trying to source the original chip for comparison.

  4. Hi, just finished building my daisley prive and man, am I happy with the result. I had to swap a couple of components noticeably the transistors and the chip, (only minor parts I know) but it still sounds great. Lovely smooth, buttery drive with tons of gain. This is my first build Si I’m extra stoked it worked first go. This is a credit to you fantastic instructions. Everything is nice and clear. Thanks so much. Now I’m going to go and punish my ears some more!

  5. I’ve bought them on ebay and from Tayda before, but never from Australia. I suppose they’re getting more expensive these days.

  6. I’m having lots of trouble getting J201 transistors in Australia. Can anyone suggest an alternative?

  7. update, it turned out to be bad wiring in the room i was in, as i tried it in a friend’s house and in a different room and the ground noise issue was solved. however, i’m still getting this sound like wind is blowing through it, does anybody know what this could be?

  8. Hey Harald, i just finished wiring this up and the circuit seems to work, except i’m getting some unholy ground noise and some low rumble, like wind blowing over a microphone. i’ve checked the grounding and it looks like everything is making contact, and i don’t know what else to check?

    it goes away when i touch the footswitch, and also when i plug a guitar in with the volume all the way down

  9. Hi,
    This site is great! So many schematics, so little time…

    This might be a dumb question, can I bridge the Presence switch lugs 1 and 4 that go to Tone 1 or do they need to be separate? And same for the Mid Switch and lugs 2 and 5, can they be bridged and then connected to ground?


  10. You can mark this as verified. I built this back in February; didn’t realize the status hadn’t been changed. Mine’s a little brighter sounding than the original, good TS variant!

  11. Hey Steve. Any time you need a diff value for a pot you can cut it in have by soldering a resistor of the same value as the pot across the 1 & 3 legs of the pot. i.e. if you have a 500k pot and need a 250k pot…solder a 500k resistor across legs 1 & 3 BOOM…you got a 250k pot. Same with reverse (c) pots.Tuk the resistor between the solder lugs and body of the pot then mount it.

  12. Hey Harald, found a C25K at mammoth elec, but the only one they had was pc mount with the little pins, still pretty easy to solder to though. Went ahead and ordered one, I got all the other parts and I’ve started on the board.

  13. Not sure where to get a C25k, but a B25k should work pretty well too and is easier to get. And no, it hasn’t been verified yet.

  14. Does anyone know where to get the C25K for this build? I got everything but that. Also, has this been verified?

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