Request: Devi Ever Shoegazer

I wasn’t able to find any schematic for this effect, but from what I’ve gathered it’s a combination of two other effects, the “Torn’s Peaker” and the “Sode Meiser”, wired in series so here’s a layout for each of those instead. Pot tapers are guesses, both layouts can use PCB-mount pots if you’d like. Let me know if you build any/both. And thanks to Devi Ever for the effect schematics.

Torn’s Peaker layout:

Soda Meiser layout:

Update (31.01.2012): Swapped C2 and C3 on the Torn’s Peaker. This one is now verified, thanks to Milkit and MikeT.

Update (10.02.2012): Built the SodaMeiser the other day, which worked as advertised. Verified.

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23 thoughts on “Request: Devi Ever Shoegazer

  1. Hello Harald,
    first I want to thank you for your work… it’s very inspiring to me.
    I would like to know which of the two circuits comes first.
    In my experiments, I placed TP before SM. Is that right?
    Thanks again, shine on. Greetings from Italy!
    p.s. Sorry for my “google-translated” english. 😉

  2. Hi djaxes. If you have a look in the “schematics & drawings” section there should be an illustration on how to wire two effects in series.

  3. this may make me sound like a total noob but how wold you put this in a series sorry im new to all of this.

  4. I built the SM en TP. I added noise and chaos switch to the SM and a switch to reverse Q4 (vintage fuzz master). Really like the chaos switch. And a switch to turn the Torns Peaker into a aenima. SM is not very loud and the texture pot of TP doesn’t change that much except controlling the hiss. But still very nice effect. Thanks Harald

  5. I don’t have a schematic, but supposedly this is just the Torn’s Peaker and the Soda Meiser put together in series inside the same box.

  6. Sounds promising the way you describe it 🙂 As for radio noise I’m not sure this circuit was designed to prevent it in any way to begin with. but you might have some luck with adding series resistance on the input and maybe also a small pico farad cap to ground forming a low pass filter (maybe 10k and 220p?) although I’m not sure how that’d affect the rest of the circuit.

  7. Thanks Harald! I just tested it and got success with first try! Very cool fuzz pedal… it reacts better with your volume control than any fuzz I’ve used- Pretty interesting I can clean it up to a light distortion with my volume down to 3 on my guitar- when on clean my volume on 3 and it’s basically muted! also when turning your volume down the signal doesnt get quieter really, it just cleans up really well. and from 8-10 it actually gets so much gainier and compressed it might even get a little quieter, by a tiny little smidge. It’s not as chaotic as I thought it would be. It’s just a really good classic fuzz with this layout… which is weird- I thought it was supposed to sound like a torn speaker. but I really cannot get over the clean up ability and tone with this fuzz- most fuzzes when you turn them down you get kinda a shitty scratchy light fuzz or it just cleans up completely or it gets real splatty and shit. With this one it really gets all sorts of different ditry sounds all the way down to a tube amp like crunch. Recommended.

    now with my testing rig I was getting a good deal of noise and I was even picking up radio signals. I’m planning on completing the shoe gazer by putting the torn’s peaker and the soda meiser in teh same box. Should I use shielded cable? Anyone know which one goes first in the signal chain?

  8. You’re absolutely right. For aesthetic and practical reasons I always try to draw my layouts with a dedicated endpoint for each connection (and if you use on-board pots it could be a bit finicky on this one), but there’s no reason you can’t omit the last strip and do it the way you describe. Happy building 🙂

  9. I wanted to build both for the shoegazer. on the torn’s speaker, I have an 11×14 vero- it calls for 11×15… (or something I’m one short length wise) Couldnt I just wire volume 2 directly to the output instead of putting a jumper in and having it come from the output???

  10. Harald, thanks for an amazing site. I built both effects for the Shoegazer and they worked perfectly. The Torn’s Peaker hisses alot when not being played, but that seems to be the way that pedal works. It’s incredibly loud. Thanks again!

  11. Mike, I may have a suggestion for you. Since the problem manifests itself at either end of the pot try adding a series resistance to lug #2, maybe 10k or something. This may help eliminate the HF noise.

  12. Thanks Harald! I’ll try some shielded wire and shorter wire lengths when I box it. Here in Los Angeles I get knx news radio 1070 from many of my DIY fuzz boxes. Clear and loud too… sometiems, sounds cool with phase, wah, chorus and delay 🙂

    BTW, I love the new Captcha

  13. Thanks for letting me know. Swapping C2 and C3 will solve the pot issue and I’ll update the layout accordingly. A 22n will probably work just fine in place of the 20n, but solving the AM and hiss may be a bit more tricky. From what I understand this is a pretty common problem with high gain effects and there’s probably a number of ways to solve it. Your best bet is probably to search the forums at http://www.freestompboxes.org and http://www.diystompboxes.com as I’s sure this issue has been discussed before. You’ll get a much better answer than I can give you.

  14. Hi Harald,

    I built the Torn’s Peaker as well. The Texture pot was backwards for me too (I swapped 1 and 3 and it worked OK), I did not use board mounted pots.

    This sounds better than my last one from a different vero layout, but when I have the textrue all the way down it hisses and picks up AM radio, and then when I have it cranked it also picks up AM radio. Quite a bit of hiss too (May just need to be in a box).

    Any ideas how to get rid of the mess when the pot is zeroed/maxed?

    BTW I subbed 22n film caps for the 20n. Could that be causing the problems?

  15. Hi Harald, ah right I see, my pots are just the STD Alpha w/ straight PCB mounting lug, mounting with the right angled equivalent, on the solder side would be heaps better. I’d mounted mine onto the solder side, but so the rotary was facing the component insertion side (if that makes sense?) It worked fine, but as I say the texture is reversed, yet the volume is fine (I meant to mention that in my first post sorry). I’ll try your suggestion of swapping the caps around. Thanks for your help buddy. Milkit

  16. Do you mean the pots should be the other way around in a physical sense for on-board mounting purposes, or do you mean the pot settings are reversed compared to the original unit? I set this up with the intention of using 90 degree angled PCB pots mounted on the solder side of the board. If it’s rather a question of having the pot functionality reversed you only need to swap C2 and C3.

  17. I had to solder the pots to the trace side too to keep the orientation the same as the layout!

  18. Hi Harald, did the Torn’s peaker board lastnight & it worked dude, so kinda verified. The only query I have is, the texture pot worked backwards, should 1 & 3 be the other way around on the board, or should it be a C500k pot? Excellent work though bud, sounds good & nasty!!! Milkit

  19. I used A pots when I built these in the past… going to build them again from your layouts as the Torn’s peaker vero layout I built before was questionable and never sounded right. The Soda Meiser is just plain brutal sounding as a fuzz!

    Note if you reverse Q3 in the Soda Meiser you get a Devi Ever Vintage Fuzz master (or so I have been told), it’s an easy mod to put on a switch and does create some fuzz variety.

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